Western Tanzania

Hallo from Kenya,

We arrived today at Nanyuki in Kenya. We are now at the equator and will turn back South tomorrow for the first time towards South Africa. Hope to be almost summer when we get in RSA. We had an amazing time at Maasai Mara and saw 3 of the big five. Hoped to see the remaining 2 (leopard and rhino) in Lake Nakuru National Park today but had no luck. Tomorrow Mount Kenya (second highest in Africa). Lets start where we entered Tanzania. Such a lovely country but very expensive tourist attractions.

Our last camp site in Malawi was at Thundunzi campsite at northern part of Malawi lake. We left at about 09h30. Was a real pleasure to have met Alfred and his family. Wishing him all the best!

The border post (Songwe MAL/TAN) took us 2h. A guy approached us with third party insurance at the Malawi checkout and then a second guy at the Tanzania border. So the second guy said that the first one is not a legitimate agent. So, the two had an argument there in front of us. Luckily they sorted it out and the second one turned out to be the real deal. He was very helpful. We met a british couple from Malawi (that were on there way to Katavi National park in Tanzania for a 3 week holiday). Got some useful tips on which national parks to see. The border crossing cost 75000 tanzanian shillings (tzs). We paid $130 for the comesa third party insurance. Johan, who we met at Cape Macleur (Malawi) recommended the Comesa. The nice thing is that it include a few countries (except Mozambique). So, basically a once-off payment.

Over the border at 14h00 in local time (Tanzania time is 1h later than RSA time), we stopped in the parking area at the first shop in Tanzania and ate a vienna with cream crackers. Back on the road for another 40km. The first few kilometers is remarkably different than any of the countries we have visited. Lush green vegetation with coffee plantations and banana trees as far as the eyes can see. The area is ideal for this kind of farming since it is about 2400m above sea level and a 16 degrees cold. Much different than Malawi.

Thereafter the elevation dropped down to about 1400m and the temperature increased a bit in the low 20’s.

We arrived at about 18h30 in Mbalizi area (about 10km out of the big city of Mbeya (also an airport). We camped for one night at ICC Hotel and Guesthouse. A huge camp ground with a hotel and guesthouse. We camped on the playground and they opened a room for us to use the bathroom. Payed 40000tzs per tent (about R120 pp). It was a very cold night of 14 degrees. It is because of the high elevation and winter time. As soon as the sun rise, it gets warmer throughout the day. That night I had a chicken curry with rice – 8000tzs (best curry I had in a long time). My father had a beef with patatoes (9000tzs). Meal was great value for money! I think only my meal was fresh since my father vomited ? the next morning. Reminder: avoid beef in Tanzania (could be goat meat).

The next morning we were on the road from Mbalizi to Sumbawanga. Road was in bad condition and the area more dry with dusty roads. The wheels of all the trucks made the tar road a 2-spoor road. So, kind of technical to drive on. In Tanzania, there are more motorcycles on the roads than bicycles. I get the feeling that people here are very proud of their motorcycles. They clean it regularly and very shiny compared to the contrasting dusty roads. They also modify it with all kinds of artifacts and arty patterns on the tanks. Almost no cars on the roads but a lot of colorful trucks that also gets decorated. There are also colorful 3-wheel mobeds in the cities called tuk-tuk. The speed control is terrible – you have intense road riffles and bumps and riffles on bumps.

We arrived 15h30 in Sumbawanga (177km before Katavi National park). We first exchanged rand for some dollars at CRDB Bank.

In Tanzania you need a lot of dollars. All the major tourist attractions except dollars. So they basically distance themselves from the bad Tanzanian currency (R1 = 165tzs). The parks are not cheap either (but later about that). After the money business, we got a sim card at Hallotel (5000tzs for sim+500mb x 2phones). I realized that the internet is really slow and went to vodacom (7000tzs for sim+500mb). Much faster! Took me about 2h since they struggled to cut the card to the correct size. We arrived about 18h00 at our camp (Kalumbo Falls Lodge). It is not a camping place but we arranged to camp on the parking lot of the hotel. They opened a room for us in the hotel to use the bathroom. All for 40000tzs. They informed us that we don’t need to be scared when we saw armored security guards arriving since they were expecting the Minister of Infrastructure to arrive. They were very friendly and made us feel welcome there. That night it was still cold since we were at an elevation of 1820m. I wondered when the elevation will drop and get warmer. Don’t like the cold weather.

The next morning after a real good rest, we first went for a shower (cold water) and afterwards for a very basic full breakfast (10000tzs pp). Very good value for money. The coffee was very good (Africafe made in Dar es Salaam) along with the local oil balls. Did I mention that this is the coffee country? It is also my mission to try the local food in each country. After the breakfast we packed up and went into town to exchange more rand for dollars since things will get expensive from here on.

We left town at about 11h30 (everything in local time) and head for Katavi National Park. It is a very remote park that is less frequently visited than other Tanzanian parks. There were reports of the number of wildlife declining due to illegal hunting and poaching. According to resources, it looks like this park has the big five. Hoped to see everything. After 50km out of Sumbawanga we approached our first gravel in Tanzania. The first few kilometers is bad road but improve a lot – still very dusty. Looks like the Chinese is also working on this road. So, should be finished soon as a tar road. After another 50km we were back on the tar road. The roads in Southern Tanzania is not bad as long as you stay on the main roads. But the roads avarage at about 50km/h. This is because you are driving through a lot of villages along the way with a speed limit of 50km/h. When through the village, speed limit is 80km/h. Although, they easily indicate when to slow down but no signs exist when to increase your speed. This is where they catch you with speeding cameras.

We arrived at about 15h00 at Katavi National park. No gate. You just go through. A sign on the road says “game viewing without a permit is strictly prohibited”.

We can’t helped notice a lot of trucks driving at high speed through the park. However, this is the only western road to our next camp that goes through this park. Why do they do this? Why through the park. We went to Katuma tented camp lodge to see if we can camp there. Another 6km turn-off from main road. On our way there we saw a herd of elephants crossing the road, about 5 giraffes and a number of hoppo’s and crocodiles near the river. So this park clearly has a lot of animals. And to see them in the middle of the day! Katuma lodge is a lovely place with great location on a open stretch of land. However, when we arrived the guys did not sound enthusiastic in offering us accommodation. We can’t camp there; only lodges and explained us direction where we can camp in the park. I don’t want to stay at their place, anyways. They did not sound eager in doing business and sitting around on there cellphones. On there guest list we saw that they only had one guest so far for this month and three for last month. So, not doing great.

We left there and went a kilometer or so down the road to Ikuu post. It is a rangers post with nothing to offer except a hippo pool. It is a excellent place to camp, but the park ranger acted a bit strange. We wanted more information about the camping place and the cost involved but was difficult communicating with him due to his lack of speaking english (people can’t speak english in Tanzania). He explained to us that we must wait while he call his boss. It took too long and it was getting late so we decided to drive off and look for a camping place at the northern side of the park.

A few kilometers on the main road a nissan patril came towards us and flashed their lights. We stopped and two guys approached us with the words “we got the message that you want to pay”. Whaaat??. I told them that we first want to find camp and then we will pay (not sure for what). Long story short – they followed us for 30km to Katavi campsite and told us that since we turned off from the main road we were suppose to pay park fee in dollars. They even drove around with their card machine in case you don’t have cash on you. When we heard the total cost of $190 (467000tzs) for one night, we drove off. We decided that their approach was not fair and we would rather bush camp outside of the park. I can’t really do anything about this situation in their country, but will take this matter more serious when I’m back in RSA. Now we know why this park don’t attract a lot of tourists. We arrived at about 22h00 after driving 180km on a very bad gravel road at a spot between rocks next to the road. Passed a few trucks that broke along the road. One truck jackknifed in the middle of the road with a very small space with us to pass. The guys working on the truck looked rather scary so we passed in a hurry. That night we were a bit irritated from all the driving and went to bed straight after eating some leftovers from the braai of the previous night.

The next morning we made a breakfast and coffee and got a nice view for the first time where we actually camped. This was a pretty sweet camping spot behind rocks and cactus ? plants. The recommendations were once again spot on.

We left our bush camp at 10h00. It was another 220km to our next camp on gravel road (bad road). Went over Malagarasi river (a branch of Tanganyika lake) at 11h00.

Arrived the same day at 15h30 at Jakobsen Beach Camp (20000tzs pp). The owner is from Sweden and really nice to talk to. We camped next to Freddie and Lize from Oudshoorn the first day. They gave us some good advice on the roads and information about the visas. They were almost going the same route then us. So maybe we will meet them again. They left the next day to Burundi on there way to Uganda. We decided the next morning that we should also try at the embassy of Burundi in Kagoma to get a visa. We will then go through Rwanda and then Uganda to Kenya. We heard that the road will be mostly tarred. However, Uganda is the problem in getting a visa. Some people told us that you can get a visa at the Uganda border. We wanted to confirm and made contact with visa agencies in Cape Town. Unfortunately you do need a visa. The nearest Uganda Embassy in Tanzania is in Dar es Salaam. Too far! We decided that morning that we would rather take the long road back on the road we came from. It is only until Uvinza and then a left turn to go east. Jakobsen also reassured us that this is the best way to go. The other shorter option to go east and then into Kenya border is about 300km of heavy 4×4. We had enough of bad roads in Angola!

The rest of the day was relaxing. Made a brunch on the fire and we went for a snorkel in Lake Tanganyika. Not many fish to see but the water was crystal clear and efficient in cleaning off the dust from the past few days. The evening we used the same fire to braai more meat and went early to bed.

The next morning we first packed and I went for a final swim in the lake at about 08h00. Did not see the slippery rock when I entered the lake and resulted in a awkward dive. We left the camp at about 09h30 and went to Livingstone memorial (7km detour). There is also a museum. We were only interested in the memorial where Dr Livingstone and Stanley met under the mango tree – “Dr Livingstone, I presume?” Unfortunately the original mango tree is not there, but the British planted some other ones. Livingstone was most famous in exploring the origin of the Nile in an attemp to use his influence in ending the East Africa slave trade. The lady asked us 20000tzs but we negotiated it down to 10000tzs since we were only interested in the memorial. I must say the place is run down for all the efforts he put in exploring Africa. Could pay more respect to the guy.

From there we drove back the road when we came from Katavi Park – bad gravel all the way where the Chinese try to improve the road. It was about 480km until we got to our next camp in Tabora. From Uvinza we got on a different road (east) were left with 320km on much better gravel (70km/h). This road alternate between gravel and tar all the way to Tabora (After 50km tar, after 50km gravel, after 40km tar, after 60km gravel and after 27km tar again).

We arrived at about 18h30 at Orion hotel in Tabora. A big hotel with restaurant and even a dance floor with disco lights. Was weird not so see a lot of people there. Only a few guys at a table. The lady at reception agreed that we can camp in the parking lot at the back of the hotel. She asked us 30000tzs pp. We only had dollars. So with their exchange rate of $1=1900tzs (at bank you get $1=22000) she wanted $32 for the two of us in total. We gave her $30. So we paid R90 more with dollars. At least breakfast was included. She also opened a bathroom for us to use with hot water – at last. The bathroom….well….this is Africa! The staff at the hotel speaks very bad english and the misunderstandings allowed for some laughable moments. After a pasta on the gas stove, we went to bed. We had a long day on the road and the effort in trying to communicate with the people made us even more tired.

The next morning we packed (as usual) and claimed our breakfast included in the price. I really like the Tanzanian coffee. Injuries is always part of our trip – my father got stung by a few bees ? ? ? ? Had to prove again I am worthy as a pharmacist. They had their nest on the grass next to our camp. We left Tabora at 10h00 (15 July) and headed for Mwanza (360km). We first had to stop at the bank (no tzs left) and a local iron shop. The aluminum part where the roof rack is fixed on the vehicle, broke again. Will decided to repair the damage with the piece of iron at our next camping site. Also, fuel ran out in a lot of town in Tanzania and resulted in some congestion at fuel stations.

It was 194 km to get to Shinyanga on good tar (no potholes). We arrived 16h00 in Mwanza.

Mwanza is a big city with crazy traffic along Lake Victoria. I liked Mwanza because it has a certain charm to it. We camped for one night at Mwanza Yacht Club (15000pp) next to Lake Victoria. No electricity and ablutions a bit old. So no shower again for us. The camp is in the tourist area of Mwanza. Very upmarket hotels with restaurants buzzing with expats. We also used our time to repair the aluminum bracket of the roof rack since it cracked again on another place. Also, cleaning the red dust from the roads of Tanzania (Lake Tanganyika).

The next morning we left Mwanza at 10h00. We were left with 306km to our next camping spot in Kenya. At 14h30 we crossed the big Mara river (branch of Victoria Lake) that goes nowhere but makes sort of a swamp.

At 83 km before our camp spot (Still in Tanzania) in Kenya we got 30000tzs speeding fine. The road from Mwanzi to Kenya border was quite busy with traffic officers – and that on a Sunday! They were looking at all the documents and we knew that at a certain point they will have some kind of problem with us. We crossed Siarri border at 17h30 into Kenya ??.

Will finish Kenya post asap. Thanks for all the support!! We appreciate all the positive feedback!! You can also follow the “current position on africa tour” map to track our position. It gives the exact position on google maps where we camped. The bouncing marker indicates where we are at the moment.