Relaxing along Malawi Lake

Hallo again from Malawi,

Wow, what a trip! Did not expect Malawi Lake to be so beautiful. It’s almost like you are on a exotic beach in the Indian ocean! And so far no crocs. But lets start where we entered Malawi.

We arrived early midday at the 3rd of July in Chipata (the big town before you cross the Malawi border (Mwani/Mchinji). We stocked up on some fresh bread at shoprite and filled the hilux with fuel. Immediately, people from all directions approached us with exchanging currencies. They told us that the border only except dollars. Sounds like a money making process. But hey, what can you expect from a border town. We also met our dutch friends (Twan and Inge) that we got to know at South Luangwa National park. Maybe we will meet them again… When we arrived at the Zambian border things looked very busy. Big trucks parked everywhere on the road and all sorts of local people hanging around. Therefore, not much different than Chipata. Luckily the checking out of Zambia border went smooth. Moving on to Malawian border was not much different, except that a lady approached us and insisted that we bought third party insurance. Why should we? We already got the “cross country” insurance and also the Carnet. After signing us into the border and checking that we paid for everything, we were on the road into the unknown adventure of Malawi…

What immediately got my attention was how dirty and full of rubbish the roads are. Also, everything, including the people, are in a poor state. Moreover, people on the side of the road asking for money and children showing us to slow down to try and get something out of us. You see children adding sand on the potholes and then trying to make you stop to pay for the improved road you are now driving on (at monkey bay area). Clever!! Bicycles are everywhere on the roads and you have to navigate your way through them. Difficult not to drive over someone. Now I know why you need third party insurance. Bicycles are used as taxis and even used to carry piled wood (hang so far to the front that it makes a roof over the bicycle) and animals that is still alive (pigs, chickens and goats). Africa at it’s finest!

After 30km into Malawi we had our second road block. But this time he did not let us so easily through. The body language of the guy looked very similar than the Angola traffic officers. I think it is the salute that puts me off. The same than the Angolan traffic officials. Why do they do that? According to my knowledge, you should only salute someone in military rank level. No doubt, the guy was there to look for trouble. He asked drivers licence and walked around the vehicle. Long story short – we did not have the local third party insurance he wanted. He went on explaining why we need it and we should google the requirements when we enter a country. He also mentioned that he can make court case against us.. Haha, very funny explaining me about google! We did not want any further trouble and went back to the border to buy the insurance. That day we arrived late afternoon about 18h00 in the capital of Lilongwe because of this whole ordeal. We camped at Mabuya Camp (3750mkw pp + 1000mkw for 250mb wifi) that is basically a overland camp with lots of volunteer groups moving through. When we arrived, our dutch friends were already settled in on the camping spot next to us. So nice to chat with them again. Lots of tents on the camp ground and the UK group of children hanging out on patio of the reception busy on their phones. You get a feeling of a backpackers lodge. Anyways, we were happy to be in this lively environment since the last few days of camping were away from civilization. A cold breeze was blowing through the camp. We made a huge camp fire and shared our food and experiences with our dutch friends.

The next morning we had an english breakfast (3000mkw pp) and headed for Cape Macleur south side of Malawi Lake.

We arrived early at about 16h00 at Chembe Eagles Nest. We were there first and chose the best spot on the lake (about $10/8000mkw pp). I was so surprised how beautiful the lake was. White sand and clear blue water. And with the bar next to our camping spot, there was not much else we needed. By the way, Malawi gin is the best ?. Reminder: need to buy some. The service is excellent and run by Riccardo who manage the place for his friend. We made arrangements for wood and a trip on the catamaran for the next morning. After unpacking we went to the bar and met three guys from Gauteng that arrived as part of the Put Foot rally. It’s basically a rally with a good cause where you drive with your own vehicle through Africa and deliver shoes for children that don’t have any. The nice thing is that the shoes can adjust when your feet grows. How amazing! You also have certain checkpoints that you need to reach in a specific time but can camp anywhere along the way. Was so nice chatting with them and we decided that we would all go along the next day on the catamaran ($25 pp). Jason really made a impact on my stay there. He lost his eyes 6 years ago in a car accident but so positive about life. He is truly a remarkable person. Reminder: we will meet him in Nelspruit when we enter RSA again through the Kruger. Also, 5 other people arrived from the Put Foot rally and joined the group. Really nice people!!

The next day at 09h00 we all went on the catamaran cruize around one of the islands in the lake. The boat captain got the attention of a fish eagle ? by throwing fish in the water. Got some nice pics. Where is burst mode on the camera when you need it the most! Unfortunately, could not snap that perfect picture that I wanted.

Afterwards, we went for snorkeling off the boat close to the island. The bright blue fish (don’t know the name) were my favourite. And swimming so close to them! Gopro footage will reveal them better in their natural environment.

Afterwards, we went back to the camping site and organized with the camp to provide us with the local fish – Chambo, to braai. It’s a beautiful shaped fish and almost look like a Steenbra. However, the structure is more firm and a pure white color. The sad thing is that Chambo is being overfished and the numbers declined by about 70% in the last 10 years. That night we all had a big braai and also invited Johan and his wife. They are from RSA but now live in Uganda and on there way to RSA. It turns out we know there family. As usual, our Jägermeister was also part of the nights festivities along with some modern country in the background.

The next morning was a slow start to the day. Made some coffee, said goodbye to everyone and took the road to Sunga Moyo camp close to Chinteche (60km before Nkhata Bay) about 350km north along the lake from Cape Macleur. We had some nice recommendations from Johan where to camp and what route to follow in Africa. So, we think of changing the route. But will update on that at a later stage. I’m now starting to miss the beach and I can hear Zanzibar calling me ?. But we have to do this trip properly. Our late departure resulted in a late arrival at 18h00 at the camp. It was dark when we sorted out our camping spot.

The next morning (Friday) our aim was to organize a boat to Likoma island at Nkhata bay. No luck. There is only two boats that do this 5h trip. The one old ship Ilala goes once a week and the other one (Chambo) departured Saturday and comes back to Nkhata on Monday. We are only looking at staying one night. We were a bit disappointed since no one really know how the boats work and giving out proper information. The other option is flying but that is too expensive ($295 pp one way).

Last night we camped at Lukwe lodge on a mountain (elevation of 1150m) with a beautiful view on Malawi lake (3500mkw pp). The road (M5) from Sunga Moyo to Mzuzu and then before the turn-off to the mountain road is a lushly green forest with mountains. It feels like the east coast in South-Africa. The turn-off to the mountain was not the best road but that is part of the experience. Drove 2h in 10km and arrived 17h00. Had a nice sirloin steak and gin at the restaurant. This morning we had an early open shower and a coffee. It’s like having a shower on Table Mountain – best experience in the world!!

 

Afterwards, we went to the tallest waterfall in Malawi (and were told the tallest in Southern Africa). We paid 500mkw pp. Was so funny when about 6 children went as a guide. They all expected us to tip them. How can you not feel sorry for them. In total we paid 6000mkw. Was an awesome experience.

At 10h00 this morning we drove down the mountain again. Another 2h in 10km.

We arrived today at 13h00 at Thunduzi camp (Thunduzi bay). We will pay 4500mkw per tent and 4000mkw for Chambo that has been prepared as a fillet by Alfred’s daughter and placed on our braai. If you want a local Malawi experience then this is the place to be. Right on the beach with local people passing by. The ship Ilala also docks here. So if you think of going to Likoma island, it is easy to leave your vehicle here at the camp and walk to the harbor where the ship comes in. Will do next time when I will have more time. Had a Malawi gin at the bar and the owner Alfred Mapunda is very friendly and helpful. He has a wonderful life story to tell. He build this place up with a vision and hard work. Please support him! It is his son in the picture below. He was trying to persuade me to buy land here since most of the area north is still undeveloped. Will think about it…

Tomorrow (9July) we will cross the border into Tanzania ??

Will update soon.