Angola – Katwitwi to Ambriz

Hallo from Kwanza river in Angola…

We are still in shock from what we have experienced in Angola so far! This resulted in a delay writing the blog. Also had some problems logging on to blog. It feels like I am on a different planet and meeting aliens. I guess this is what you call “culture shock.”

We are now at Kwanza Lodge where the Kwanza river meets the ocean. We spent the whole day on the road, back from the north of Angola (300km before Congo) in a southern direction. Tank is fueled with gasoleo (not gasolina) and had a nice baguette that we bought next to the road for 100kw. We should be leaving the country by Wednesday into Zambia. Things is way too expensive here!!

But lets start at the beginning…

We arrived at the Angola border (Katwitwi) from Rundu, Namibia the 8th of June. Someone suggested that we should go through this border and not the one on the B1 highway as originally planned. From the map it looked like gravel all the way. We did not realize in what terrible condition the road would be. The border post was build by the Chinese (we found out later that most road construction was carried out by the Chinese). At the border things did not go as smooth as we would have liked. Immediately we were surrounded by military and guys in gloves and masks that came to us out of a small office and asked if we want to exchange money to the Angolan kwanza currency. This made us think that this is part of a bribery. We did not understand a word they say. Luckily there was a local that helped us with the translation but also to try and get a ride with us. After a few minutes trying to communicate and filling in a form, an amount was written on a small piece of paper. This had to be paid at the next building that was supposed to be some sort of bank. This was all done in such an unprofessional way that we believed that this can not be legitimate. Later we found out that the amount was in fact correct. At the end we apologized for our defensive behaviour and were allowed to pass through the border. Apart from that, everyone was friendly. I think that we did not expect a border post to operate in such an informal way. Also, we heard so many stories about bribery that we already act the situation before it could even happen.

To describe the road as bad from the border post onwards, is an understatement. So lets look at the statistics… We went through the border post at 14h00 and drove 17h in 526km to Kuvango and decided to push through for a further 266 km to Lubango. We arrived at Tundavala campsite in Lubango at 14h00 the 9th of June. So, we drove 24h in 792km without sleep and ultimately made this the worst road so far. Most of the time we drove an average of 24km/h.

The villages we went through were very scenic in a weird way. Portugees influence is huge. Buildings are busy to decay and a lot of them have bullet holes that give a strong reminder of the effect of the war on Angola. All the school children wear uniforms that is in the form of what looks like a white laboratory or medical coat. Either way, it looks professional. On our way from the border of Katwitwi to Lubango, we were stopped several times by military/traffic officer to be asked all sorts of documents. We found that the best way to get through is by speaking english/afrikaans and showing that we don’t understand portugees. The military can be very intimidating with the presence of a AK47 sometimes visible. Roads were build half way and every few kilometers the road twist around the main road where a bridge ends in a landslip. At some points you find yourself choosing between three different roads around the main road. According to locals the roads were being build by the chinese around 2010 and when the oil price dropped, they left everything and went back to China. Now nothing is done to repair or maintain the roads. So tragic!

Our second stop was Namibe (an old fishing village with beautiful palm trees all along the main road. From there on we drove a sandy offroad track to flamingo lodge. A beautiful resort right on the beach. The resort has a few bangalows and places for camping. It was quite windy so we decided to rather book a bangalow. Flamingo lodge is operated by South African guys that take groups of people on fishing trips. When we were there, they expected a group from Paarl. We also had some interesting conversations with two guys that just finished with there matric exam from Luanda and now on a 6 month holiday before going to university in South Africa. Gave some invaluable advice on where to go in Angola.

The following day we decided to drive along the beach back to Namibe. Just as we got some confidence we got stuck in thick sand. After trying every possible way getting out, some friendly locals helped us by placing wooden boards from nearby building material behind our wheels. This gave the vehicle the traction it needed to get out. We also had our own plastic tranction boards but it was too short and simply spin out of the wheels.

The whole scenario made us loose some vaulable time and we had to bush camp along the way only a few kilometers before the fishing village of Lucira. However, the scenery from our camp was nothing to complain. No one around. Only a village visable in the far distance.

The next day we drove all the way to Lobito. A big city and crazy traffic. We made it just before sunset at Zulu Bar and Restaurant. Right on the beach. It was advertised on a blog as free camping. However, we had to pay 6000kw and cold showers. Also, the restaurant was closed. Nothing out of the ordinary for Angola. The beach camp was magic! Since it was too late to prepare food and we had a long drive, we went to a nearby restaurant. Food too expensive! Went back to the beach and had a braai on the beach.

The next stop was Cabo Ledo and hopefully a surf. We arrived late afternoon at Carpe Diem lodge. Met the really friendly owner named Daniel. He told us that they are not geared for camping per se but if we are willing to eat at the restaurant, he will let us camp for free. My starter meal cost almost R300 and my fathers meal cost R600. Also had the most expensive drink: gin and tonic for about R150. The next morning I went for a surf but the point break was difficult to get used to. Daniel told us he will show us the next day where he is busy building more accommodation for surfers. Will be ready by October. The next day I went for a final surf at the famous spot. Still problems getting on the wave…need to get more practice. Wave type is fast that break at a specific point close to rocks.

With disappointment on the waves, we headed for Kissama game reserve (2500kw entrance) to spot some of the only animals left in Angola. We had one night of camping (10000kw) and went for a game drive the next day (4000kw pp). We spotted black wildebeest, bush buck, eland, kudu and giraffe. Was definitely worth it but the lodge is a bit run-down. No showers and no electricity.

Still in hope of finding good waves, we went to Ambriz where we camped last night. We had to drive through part of the expensive city of Luanda to get to Ambriz. Luanda is the only place I saw a fast food restaurant like KFC. Camping near Ambriz was a bush camp on a lovely white beach close to a rocky point in a deserted bay. Beach is accessible through a white sandy road by 4×4. No surfable waves and fishing nets are covering the area where there should be nice waves when bigger swell pushes in. Will try east coast again for waves.

Tomorrow we will departure early to Bridge 14 where my father fought the war 40 years ago. Will be an emotional roller coaster for him. From there we will look for the “best” road to Zambia. Don’t think there will be much cellphone reception for my blog but will update asap where I will give my final verdict of Angola.

Until later…
Thanks for the support so far.